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Old 21-05-2011, 06:49 AM
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Grant Campbell
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Mt Eliza Victoria Australia
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Default Ron Tauranac

Save the date

Possibly the greatest designer of single seaters ever, Ron Tauranac will be our guest speaker at the clubrooms on June 28th. Ron was the designer of the Brabham and Ralt marques, and his visit coincides with the re-release of his previously sold out book Brabham Ralt Honda, with signed copies available on the night.

Ron will be interviewed by the talented ex-TV presenter Brian Smith, who will lead Ron through his 40 + year career in professional motorsport. Seats will fill quickly so be early as this is an open event, all guests are welcome.

VHRR Club Rooms - 8.00pm
30-32 Lexton Rd
Box Hill.
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Old 31-05-2011, 10:40 PM
Speedy27 Speedy27 is offline
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What time is kick-off ?
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Old 01-06-2011, 06:26 AM
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Grant Campbell
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Mt Eliza Victoria Australia
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Default Starts at 8.00pm

Ron Tauranac Evening (as do all Club Meetings) starts at 8.00pm.

For future reference, any time there's a guest speaker we always have them on first, before any normal club business.

VHRR Club Rooms
30-32 Lexton Rd
Box Hill.
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Old 29-06-2011, 08:57 AM
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Grant Campbell
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Mt Eliza Victoria Australia
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Default Ron's car setup tips

Ron gave us a sensational talk last night - what legend! Totally unassuming about his career, but totally deserving of Sir Jack's comment in his book as the world's most successful designer of production racing cars. Thanks Ron.

Ron's book - Brabham Ralt Honda, on sale on the night - sold out. Anyone who missed out can get a copy from Robert Richards - 0414 188 544, or rob@mtpanoramapress.com.au - $29.95, plus postage.

The following are Ron's notes on racing car setup.....

Car set up: Road holding is all about tyres as they are the only contact points between the car and the road. You hope.

Wheel alignment. Front degree toe out, helps braking. Rear degree toe in helps turn in and directional stability.

Camber depends on the tyre type and getting the optimum temperature spread across the tread, as a start for cross ply say 2 degrees negative front and V2 degree negative rear.

For radial ply up to 5 degrees negative front and 2 degrees negative rear.

Corner weights: With the car in running condition, with driver aboard, try and get the front weights as even as possible, preferably by shifting movable weight across the car and then by adjusting the spring platforms. This is most important for braking.

Wheel Travel: Max. Droop on the rear, helps traction. Limiting the droop on the front helps grip when cornering by increasing the weight on the outer wheel.

On the road: To balance the brakes, drive down the centre of a crowned road, and with the tyres up to temperature, adjust the balance so the front wheels just lock first. The adjustment will depend on the surface grip, for example in the wet you will need up to four turns to the rear. Having a cockpit adjustable brake balance control is desirable. If the category you run in doesn't allow this then use it for practice and disconnect for the race scrutineering.

Tyres: Check with the tyre company technician for the optimum temperature range for your tyres. As a guide, for radial ply tyres 85 to 95 degrees C, and for cross ply 80 to 110 degrees C.

There needs to be a temperature gradient across the tyre the hottest point being about 35mm in from the inner tread edge, falling about 5 degrees C to about 35 millimetres in from the outer edge.

The tyre centre should be no hotter than the inner and falling maybe a couple of degrees. The gradient across the tyre is set by a combination of negative camber and using pressure to adjust the centre temperature.

The adjustments should be carried out when the tyres are up to running temperature.

After running when the tyres have cooled to ambient temperature check the pressures to give a starting pressure for future occasions.

Tyres are best filled with Nitrogen or dry air, the less moisture content the less the temperature rise. When driving, to get the tyre temperature up, braking and accelerating is better than weaving, weaving tends to get the surface temperature up, where as braking and accelerating gives greater G force and gets the core temperature up as well. To get more temperature into the front tyres brake hard & accelerate less, for more rear temperature do the reverse. The front and rear tyre temperatures should be fairly close; this is achieved by matching the front to rear weights to tyre size/tread width.

Tyre Temperature: When taking the temperatures, insert the needle deep near the cord, insert it a few times to bring the needle up to temperature start on the inner edge of the tyre, as you progress across the needle cools making it more of a match for the next reading. A needle type of Pyrometer can measure the core temp.

Infrared guns measure the surface temperature, which reduces too rapidly to get an accurate stationary reading. A standard Pyrometer can be modified to give constant depth' readings by fitting a tight sleeve over the needle leaving 4 to 5 millimetre of the needle tip exposed. A pyrometer, which records the readings, speeds up the process, you print a read out when finished.

On Track: To reduce under steer soften the front or stiffen the rear suspension, using the Anti Roll Bar, Springs or Dampers. For over steer do the opposite. Set up for slow speed first, select a corner with a good run off and adjust under steer & over steer to your liking. A soft rear anti roll bar will help adhesion. If necessary to stiffen the rear a lot to help car balance, stiffen the Springs or Dampers. For aero balance select a fast corner with a good run off and trim the front/rear down force. If no trim devices are fitted to the car try altering the car rake.

Tyre Life: When not in use it is best to deflate tyres, store them in a black bag and keep them in a cool environment away from a fridge compressor or electric motors as these make ozone when running which I'm told can damage tyres. Tyre performance drops of the more heat cycles they go through.

Friction circle: Combining turning & braking forces can enable a, lyre to generate more total grip than it can in any one direction. Progressive brake application so that the car gradually takes up its change of pitch will give a shorter braking distance.

Wheel balance: Check the wheel on the car for radial and lateral run out. Have the wheel and tyre assemble dynamically balanced and then check the assembly on the car to check static balance, if out the brake rotor is probably the cause. Suspension: - Front suspension benefits from restricted droop, this transfers weight from the inner wheel to the outer wheel when cornering. Rising rate springing on the front reduces dive under braking. A long soft bump rubber will give a rising rate. Rear suspension is best with neither of these, as you need maximum droop to maintain wheel contact under braking. Kingpin inclination gives a jacking effect on lock increasing the weight on the outer wheel. Castor angle reduces the jacking on the outer wheel when cornering and increases it on the inner. This is why trail was introduced to reduce the effect of large caster angle. Scrub radius is the distance from the contact patch centre to the kingpin centreline contact point with the ground. Not from the wheel centre road contact.
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